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Intensity at Ten C: Make clothes not war

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THE LATEST Ten C clothing range has more to do with military precision than most others, this incredible label, which has launched its The Emperors New Clothes series described as being ‘pieces that last forever’ is using craftsmanship and quality in ‘unbranded’ garments that are uniquely yours.

From the former Stone Island man Paul Harvey and CP. Company& Esemplare genius Allesandro Pungetti, these items are not simply created they are in many ways born of frustration, a frustration that not everything is like this, but in Ten Cs eyes they should be that's if the right amount of attention, skill and beauty is put into garments and the production behind them.

And the military precision I mentioned earlier, is not just a flippant comment, or some over indulgent way of unifying the production processes to highlight the quality, with each of the magnificent jackets on offer in the ENC range it is paramount. The jackets use one fabric and only four colours, exclusively finished in Italy, really do have significant links to military clothing from the past.

With Stuarts stocking two of the range which are the Field jackets available in navyorolive and the Snow Smockjackets available in navy or the royal blue, also available are the Liner which comes in orange or olive, and the Drill jacket, which comes in tan, but these are not part of the ENC range, although they offer the same wonderful attention to detail.

Described by Ten-C as the most iconic jacket of all time, the Field is for the label based 1960s version, with a few alterations such as reducing the sleeves, while the glove flaps remain on the end of the sleeves, the designers describe the Field it as a 'pretty perfect jacket'.

Holding the American army jacket as the staple on which all others are based, the Ten-C Field first saw action in 1943, being remodelled to incude new zip fastenings, draw string was added and a rolled up hood, with Ten-C using the version worn during the Vietnam conflict of the 1960s as its building block. The garment's fabric which is OJJ and made in Japan is finished in Italy and allows the jacket to follow the body shape of the wearer, so in time each one will perfect its own particular shape, that of the owner, building a personal history/stamp to become ‘Your’ garment. A nice touch.

The zip through, two chest and two hand pockets both with flap closure comes in slim fit and is wonderful.

The Snow Smock, which again has massive military connotations, used by the Norwegians in winter camouflage, and sported by the Heroes of Telemark, (which was made into a 1965 film starring Richard Harris and Kirk Douglas) who were involved in the operation to destroy ‘hard water’ manufacturing during the Second World War, to halt the perceived construction of atomic bombs by the Germans.

The belt fastened jacket, (built into the the body of the garment) which would have come in white originally to match the snow of the countryside, is another nice aspect of this hard core winter jacket, making it one of the best of all time.
Based on a 1970s construction, with the original items being lightweight and worn over heavy winter trousers and jumpers, this version is a complete item to be warn in all winter weathers, usable as a skiing jacket even, meaning it is not lightweight.

Four breast pockets upper and hand, with a hood and inner lining, with anti-snow flap pockets, again made of the OJJ Japanese made micro-fibre, which will ensure the individuality of each garment as with the Field.

Part one Over and Out:









Ten C: clothes not war (Part two)

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Second front:

STYLISED MORE in its entirety on air than land military, the Liner is linked with the American Parka which had a removable liner, allowing for the iconic jacket to be used all year round in various combat situations.

This jacket links back to the 1950s style of Parka and is designed to fit inside every jacket from the Ten C range available at Stuarts.

This chameleon like addition is uber cool, well it’s uber warm actually, but you get my drift as it has the ability to enable your Ten C wardrobe to alter itself seasonally. 

Puffa feather compartments or quilted as it is also known, the orange and olive linings will bring a completely different look to your jacket, this mix and match approach is somewhat incongruous with the other jackets in the range, which have the ability to mould themselves to their owners shape over time and as such it adds another nice angle to the whole range. Something you would come to expect from Ten C but is unusual, hence incongruous.

With prepared button holes and make and size label on the outside right hand side of the body, the piece has a nylon body shell with down lining.
If you were feeling expansive don the thing itself, it looks that stylish.

The Drill jacket coming in tan uses a similar three button fastening front as a blazer, with some nice stitch detailing, two hand pockets with flap closures and left hand chest pocket, angled with outside stitching detailing, again with flap fastening.

A fourth high button fastener allows the jacket to close up around the neck nicely, similar to the Barbour trench coat, and has short collars. 

An inner shoulder lining protects against the rain, although this jacket is part of the label’s summer range.
The lovely use of alternate tans on the inner and outer of the garment, detailed stitching along the sleeves, which are beautifully vented at the cuffs and detailing on the right chest for an open inner pocket show continual attention to finite aspects.

If the other jackets in the range are based on series military action, the Drill could be seen sported during precious RnR periods, although it again sports the inner buttons allowing it to utilise the down Liner, so whatever the weather you are ready for action.

So get ready to fall in with Ten C this season.

Attention


Put your shirt on Carhartt this summer

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THE T-SHIRTS may say ‘Run For The Hills’, but unlike the Iron Maiden song Run to the Hills that had people running for the off button, the latest offering from cult American workwear label Carhartt, has come across all west coast this season and should have you running for the shop.

With delightful splashes of colour, patterns and prints, these are exciting times from the label that hails from New York, but brought it’s hardworking garments to the world and is always pushing at that envelope.

The real wonder about the latest line is the garments utilising other items, combining it with blazers, shorts and trainers for a more relaxed summer style.

Concentrating on the tops from the range the Planet Palm print rinsed shirt in Cayman green is the first piece that catches the eye, the button down all-over print with chest pocket just wreaks of the beach, or at least transferring that look into everyday wear. The shirt also comes in a dark blue, with black  as well green and I want one.

Drop the shirts in alongside say the evening blue Gant Rugger or the Minimum Sam medium blue for the green shirt, or the Matinique Selkirk or maybe the Minimum DK EDI Screamin for the dark blue shirt, ping on a pair of Universal Worksfloral twill shorts or the sand deck shorts or penguin faded denim shorts and your add a choice of Shoes like Potterycanvas trainers … or drop on the delicious Detroit black rigid jacket… just a thought.


The slim fit Detroit zip through jacket is a perfect canvas for alternate seasonal colours, sporting one chest pocket (zip), Carharttbranding on the chest, with corduroy collars, two angled front hand pockets with adjustable hem is a blockbuster.
Maintaining the light print angle, the Langley is a piece of pastel perfection with all over print, perfect for fitting into any relaxed look.
Then there is the Detroit Lionst-shirts coming in blue penny and burgundy, a classic full cotton T, with brand patch on the hem. 

The Contract t-shirt coming in grey Heather and red has a very relaxed feel about it, while the monochrome S/S Crest t-shirts with alternate crests on against the white or black t-shirt bodies hints at a more preppy look.

All the crew neck t-shirts of course fit in perfectly with any of the Carhartt jeans, but I cannot shake the feeling of seeing this working with other items, from different brands, which the label has not so superbly for some time.

The Run for The Hills grey Heather or navy t-shirt just shouts vibrancy and the Doubleday & Cartwright print on the front is a delight, while the House Rockin shirt complete with its nod to one of the most historic record covers ever released in the Motor City (Detroit), this shirt shows the cover from The Gories 1989 album entitled House Rockin'.

Then if you fancy a bit of house rocking, or body popping the Postcard sweat shirt in grey, which sports a print of the Detroit cityscape and Carhartt emblazoned across the chest below it in red, is all very Grand Master Flash.

It's time to get shirty then.

Fanfare for the Common People

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IN THE words of Sheffield Sex City’s most famous songster Jarvis Cocker from Pulp: ‘I wanna live with common people’. The 1990s anthemic hit unlike the uber hip clothing label if the same name, was based on posh people slumming it, while the Kestin Hare created Common People label, is built around a communal interest in quality workmanship and design.

Hare, former Head of Design at Nigel Cabourn, has in the words of the label itself: 'Created a movement back to provenance and focuses on premium quality, craftsmanship and local sourcing to create a contemporary product with identity’.

Now I think we can all recognise and associate with that and although it is easy to feel a link with the beautifully crafted clothes, understanding a Scottish summer holiday may not be all that easy to grasp, and that, along with 1970’s field trips are part of the essence of the new collection.

You can see the 1970s link with some of the prints used in the SS14 range, first off the bat is the Barry Geometric short sleeved shirt.
The print is Celtic inspired and is a delight with grey and yellow tones, button down collar and neck, which is just over French in style. I particularly like the lighter colouring on the sleeve ends.

The Invergarry navy shirt, once again in short sleeve, is button through, with wooden buttons in a relaxed Hawaiian style, with five button front and open collar, again sporting a Celtic-inspired specially developed print. While the Dura is all navy, with a ‘pin knit’ construction, two chest pockets in a tailored fit and combines relaxed with precision, marled buttons and short hem.

The Flodigarry is very similar to the Barry, with a light grey print with adjustable button cuffs, cat eye buttons and button down collar, with a to die for finish.
The navy colouring is also sported on the lovely Glendaleblazer, which has the most delightful lining, which even to most unromantic among you looks exactly like the sun rising over mountains. The double vent tailored fit jacket has two side pockets with flap closure, double button front fastening and chest pocket and is a linen cotton mix.

The Barium t-shirt has a lighter blue chest pocket flap and has a rib finish, which is delicious.
Or the staple wearInverness jumper with lock-stitching detailing to ensure the chill off the Scottish summer is firmly kept at bay.
The Inverness really is the only bit of formalised wear in the range, more workman like, in style, while in a lighter blue, well denim, Alperton heavy weight raglan shirt, made of French towelling and non-flap button fasten chest pocket is a fabulous contrast garment.

The perfect matching between blazers and the t-shirts and shirts from CP is excellent, relaxed yet stylised.
Dropping the Lomond ecru t-shirt into the mix is a master-stroke coming in yellow or grey the all over print is a delight and definitely of its time, button chest pocket and button fastening cuffs, while the Montrose crew neck, raglan long sleeve shirt in slim fit in either red or yellow with black neck and pocket top shifts the scenery somewhat.

The other delightful thing about Common People is the fact that all the ranges fit perfectly together, they have, you might say something in c
ommon or there is a common theme or …

I will stop with the common puns now.

Something wicked this way comes ...

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Cut, paste, read: Simply ;)

Enjoy


http://issuu.com/stuartslondon/docs/slm/1?e=10211516/7457265

China in your hands, well shoes

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THERE IS something uniquely Japanese about Shoes Like Pottery, that may seem an obvious thing to say, as they are manufactured in Japan, but from the design, the styling, to the choice of colours SLP has a total Nippon feel.
As someone who has visited Japan several times, it is difficult to describe, it relates to the precision and attention to detail, the loving craftsmanship which in the own words of SLP: ‘we have developed over many years a serious shoe manufacturing process’.

Again this may seem at odds with the subtlety of the shoes, but the vulcanised or Ka-ryu process, which is the final step in the shoes production and sees them baked in a kiln, which ensures the shoes maintain their ‘beautiful silhouette’ and remain 'unbreakable' and of course durable.

The process of these shoes which are built in separates parts, from hand sowing the laminated canvas uppers to the final kiln work is only done by the hands of specialist craftsmen at the Moonstar factory in Kurume in Fukuoka, in the north east of the country. Fukuoka is home to Ramen soup and Bridgestone tyres, which may go someway to understanding the Ku-rya process which have made the shoes legend, Moonstar being one of only three factories in Japan still using the originally American process.

Starting out as Moonstar, a highly respected shoe manufacturer in Japan with 140 year history, the first pairs of SLP were created four years ago, gaining their names when visitors to the factory noted the kilning process was similar to that used in pottery and ceramics.
The 130-degree heat used in the kiln produces a chemical reaction in the shoe creating an amazing flexibility and durability.

And of course amidst all this hand built beauty the shoe sports the company’s logo, embossed on the side of the sole, it is known as ‘Inuchide no kozuchi’ meaning lucky mallet or magical hammer.
Keeping things as beautifully simple as the lines of the shoes, the only difference in the name of each is the colouring of the upper part of the shoes, and Stuarts have three shoes to offer black, indigo or white and it really is difficult not to want to bag all three.

SLP have refined a well worked design and of course pushed it to another level, the contrast light blue sole, which matches the embossed logo, adds a lovely sparse sprinkle of colour which plays nicely against the stark one colour low cut upper of the shoes.

A rubber toe cap, matches the upper, except in the indigo, where the cap is contrast white, with metal eyelets (six) and cushioned insoles.

Lacoste Live bites back

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MAKING UP part of the The Four Musketeers who dominated world tennis for France from 1920 to the 1930s, René Lacoste, famously nicknamed The Crocodile was as formidable with a racket as his clothing range has become to men young and old across the globe.

In many ways the ‘Shirt Lacoste’ or La ChemiseLacoste has outstripped the legacy of its creator René despite the Parisian’s incredible seven Grand Slam titles including Wimbledon (1925 & 28) holding the world number one spot in 1926 and 1927, with the first thing people recognising is the shirts, which were sported by Lacoste on courts from the brand’s first inception in 1933, with the logo from his nickname proudly emblazoned on the chest.

The shirt itself has always been an attainable item for any aspiring fashion conscious male and it continues to be such, but  the latest Liverange also provides as much colour and style as you can shake a well honed back hand with top spin at.

Kicking off with a garment that’s about as Mod as you can get the collarless polo looks sure to be a classic in its simplicity, with contrast white buttons.

Navy in colour, with white neck and cuff piping, the pique construction shirt has a two button placket and comes in an ultra slim fit. The shirt also comes in a beautiful orange hue of mantel.
Theiconic polo, with two button placket makes a return also in ultra slim fit in tajine (rusty orange), marine (navy) and haying (green), with matching buttons.

The simplicity in colour usage continues with thetank top, that sports a chest pocket and comes in blue or marine with contrast trim in white again in slim fit, with each sporting the three colour (red, white and black) extra logo from the range.
The sweatshirts in the range the Argent Chine(grey) top and Noir Fleece (black) shirts are one colour throughout except for the aforementioned logo, which is again repeated on the inside of either cuffs.


In similar one colour main style, the ultra slim hooded sweatshirtcomes with contrast white zip front, contrast colouring inside the hood with two hand pockets. The shirts come in navy and egee (sky blue).
Blue of various hues is a predominant colour and remains in the skinny fit denim shirt, with contrast collar, no pockets and adjustable cuffs.

The showerproof bomber jacket with stud button front fastening and stud button fastened hand pockets, in contrast French and navy blue (collars and cuffs), the jacket is lined and has a cotton canvas body, with a zip left arm pocket.
Breaking away from the simple colour lines, the printed noir polo shirt has an amazing (light blue and pink) tropical print against the black background, two button placket has black cuffs and collar.

The lagoon striped t-shirt shocks against the rest of the range, this crew neck comes in Jersey cotton and has a graphite and sky blue pattern across the body.

On the whole, the range seems very playful and that is highlighted in the printed crew neck t-shirts, the manic Japanese style print on the Jiro Bevis, a collaboration between the artist and the label with the relaxed approach of the range even stretching to sporting the iconic crocodile logo on the side right of the grey full cotton t-shirt. The marine printed crew neck has a sporty feel to it, with a cartoon croc head outline printed across the chest with Lacoste Live emblazoned above and below the head.


The relaxed feel continues in the button fly lagoon clair Bermudashorts which comes with five pockets and sports the three banded logo on the inside turn up of the shorts. 

They act as a nice plain canvas to drop the brighter coloured tops against, while the showerproof parka jacket is a formal camouflage print end to the range, bringing a stronger look to the garments in the range.

The hooded storm flap closure jacket has two hand pockets, one inside and comes in a regular fit, zip through fastening, with white drawstring fastenings. 

It seemed fitting that this more all round item is the last one covered, as with the famous English summer tennis event, you never quite know when you will need to cover up from the rain.

It seems the Crocodile hasn't lost any of its bite.






Summer loving with Farah

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SUMMER IS definitely on it’s way and one line that has rolled up its sleeves and pulled out some classic wardrobe winners with its short sleeve shirts, they are super cool for what looks set to be a long hot summer and that is Farah.

The Askrigg bordeaux button down slim fit cotton shirt has a Jackson Pollock style print with turned up sleeves and is a delight, with Farah logo embroidered on the chest, sporting a more 80s style geometric pattern print style in claret, sky blue, white and black the Reeth button down slim fit also has the rolled up sleeves. 

The Gunnerside cream shirt is a more relaxed floral, well dandelion print, button down again with sleeve roll, this also has a button fasten chest pocket with logo on it, it also comes in a more muted navy where the flower prints really stand out.

The Trent shirt comes in the same cut and body style, but prefers a neutral one colour in orange or navy with white button and chest pocket.

The Ruxton long sleeve shirt is part of the 1920 range, button down, with wooden buttons, a slim fit cut, with flap patch on the chest pocket and the logo attached not embroidered.

A version on the previous short rolled sleeved shirt, the Gallantis part of the 1920 range and has button down, delicious floral print all over, it has a pen pocket in slim fit, in indigo and deep red and also leans towards the American style of white t-shirt underneath worn open, nice.

Also part of the 1920 range the Gatsby shirts sport wooden buttons, tag logo and have a stunning overall floral print coming in cream or navy.

TheHobartshorts feature the same print as the Askrigg in bordeaux print, lined, tailored fit with four pockets and button fly.


So all you need now are some chilled beers and a pub garden to help kick start the summer season.


The return... Skylon high

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STUMBLING OUT of SLM Towers after launching the first edition of what could be seen as the smartest new magazine on the block, I could easily have been forgiven for getting carried as to the oddity of the situation that befell me.
I was after all sheltering from what seems to be the perpetual rain of British spring and summer relying on the ability of my Crombie Rainmac, blue not the navy, to do so, I find that colour brings out the tan of my Grenson Archies better in dull weather.


I stood clutching all the requisite papers for future editions of SLM in my newly acquired Want Les Essentials De La VieOhare shopping tote, when I was approached by a man, not in an Operation Yew Tree way mind.

This rakish chap, sporting a full length coat I recognised as a Barbour Stockman and dark glasses, Ray Ban Catsin black, if I was not mistaken, jammed a small piece of paper, grunted something indecipherable and sped past me and into the night.

Not one for conspiracy theories, I quickly looked around and then recognised exactly what the typed message of: 'Castelnau' meant and who it was from… 

Something wicked this way comes I thought and pondered visiting said property near Barnes, London over a series of fully loaded French 75s, when my curiosity, it must be said, got the better of me.


So I headed out to the West London bolt hole, where I found the door key still under the back wheel of the unmoved Jaguar 420 and entered the decaying old mews knowing the basement was where I was headed.
Dust a plenty, stuffed animal heads, all smacked of only one thing, my old chum and his family lineage, with this gaff acting as the families secret bunker.

Having descended into the cellar, I was greeted by the staccato ‘tap, tap, tap’ of the IBM Selectric typewriter, attached via a ham-fisted series of wires to a Lorenz SZ40.

I am always amazed out how the fingers of influence stretched from young Skylon’s family and as the Selectric decoded his messages from god knows where, I could not help wondering how they had persuaded the Bletchley Park gang to smuggle the out such an historic piece of encrypting machinery, which was now being used to order clothing for the old desperado himself, as he blazed another trail of destruction on some ungodly corner of the globe.


Piecing together the foot steps of a crazed individual is never easy, but slugging back a fabulous glass of 1961 Mouton Rothschild Bordeaux I pondered the word hammered across: Myanmar, Ten C, Minimum Frede shorts, Swims, Orlebar Brown, Persol and of course the final one… booze.

So Burma way (Myanmar) was where my old chum was, presumably hold up in the forests hence the need for the Ten C snow smock to shield from the torrential down pours, and why would he not choose that, although originated for winter camp wear, this military icon would ensure he and the girls (Bubbles and Bingo) remain dry, I am also slipping in the Sfoderato green goggle jacket from C.P. Company, a corking garment, dripping in classicC.P.style, with drawstring comfort and deep chest and lower pockets, perfect for ammo, booze or whatever things normal people might wish to carry.

I like his choice of the Minimum Frede shorts, giving him a flexibility of extra cover with the roll down knee, button fly, and pockets a plenty in arrange of solid neutral colours, a wise move I think as the third glass of this parafino slips down.

I am not going to argue with this choice of OB T-shirts and teasingly I will send him the Tommy Illustration Monaco to remind him of sun-bleached afternoons imbibing his favourites at the Hermitage hotel, also it will won’t provide him with any form of camouflage with its delicious art deco print standing out a mile. 
I will of course drop in a couple Bobby shirts he requested from the range, so he can safely blend in a bit, I am not that cruel. 


The Swims are a wise move as well, he is obviously treading some heavy duty precipitation over Burma way, so these little beauties in the Harry Mud boots, along with the galoshes and of course the Loafers are all quality and provide not only style, but protection. 

Blazing up a Cohiba I wonder if there are any more colours in the rainbow for Swims to feature in their loafer range?

The last two demands have left my slightly confused, only in as much as I understand Skylon’s need for foldable Persolsunglasses, but which ones? The black, tortoise or the Havanas? 
I am not sure, so bung in all three from the 714 range.


As for the booze, well there is plenty here that can be fired over to the old chap, although I will be finishing up this cheeky little red before I begin to compile this little package for the old fox.










And I am sure he will drink to that.


Staying out for the summer

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THE SUN is out and with the up and down English summer weather in many was its open season to combine looks.
Working a relaxed American chic look is always a winner in the summer months, light denim and iconic preppy shoes, with a cool dark t-shirt.

To start I am plumping for the the Armani Jeans, the J10 Grigio grey, which provide a slim fit jean with a faded grey colour, all the classic Armani touches, including a leather trim on the back, zip fly, with five pockets.

If you want to go all the way James Coburn Magnificent Seven style then plump for the Paul Smith Off White jeans, delicious contrast stitching, five pockets, button fly, with branded buttons.

Of course there are countless styles of Bass Weejuns shoes, but I like the Larkin or Layton for this look if you are after a tassel shoe, there really isn't much better. In burgundy or black the hand own moccasin construction shoe, this beautiful penny loafer shoe is an icon with colours working well against the lighter denim colour.

The Merz B SchwanenWorkershirts provide clean lines, with a slim fit, three button placket crew cut top, coming in red, navy and grey, you could also go for the quieter finish of the Button Facing shirts, red, navy or nature, which is light grey, which have contrast with a ribbed pattern. These have and outside placket and ribbed cuffs, and provide an nice alternative to the bold one colour feel of the worker.

You cannot avoid socks in this situation and of course the classic argyle print of the Burlington, I reckon Manchester navy, but obviously there are so many variations, as you would expect from this legend of sock design.

Now, I would always drop a jumper into the equation, more the case as insurance with something like the CarharttToss jumper in maroon or metro blue, simple effective and very comfortable the crew neck jumper works a treat worn on the shoulders and coming in Mouline yarn. Or if you fancy splash of English colour and quality try the Hardy Amiescrew, in navy, dark grey or dark green, this two tone corker/ contrast colour arms, this soft lightweight jumper is a perfect summer accompaniment.


And of course no summer set up is complete without a bag, well where else are you keep your shades until the clouds inevitably come out?


The Filson black rucksack, large top opening in black, water repellent, well it is summer, with two large expandable pockets, storm flap and leather carrying handle, this little American wonder packs off a nice little set up I think.

Although you could always stash the Paul Smithoff white waterproof jacket, unlined, hidden hood, zip through with storm flap, this nylon wonder is simply that, wonderful and also comes in purple.


Mix and match ... Summer is here

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GYM, SUN or just general summer fun now is the time for all styles, mix and match as long as it has a casual feel to it, all is to play for.
Where to start first? Who cares. The first thing I have plumped for is the cotton blend Hugo Boss black jogging pants, these regular fit track pants sport the Boss logo on the left side zip pocket of which there are two.

I like to contrast the actual sport use of the pants with the Armani Jeans crossover strap sandalin either blue or brown, the leather upper round toe sandal has a rubber sole with padded insole.

Now with the blue main stay, try contrasting it with the Minimum DK Kieron ivory t-shirt with stunning palm tree design print on the front, crew neck and slim fit.
Or try the Tetony 1 white t-shirt with multi-image print from Boss.

As an aside, being prepared for every practicality is always cool and keeping everything neatly sorted in the relaxed Swims Footwear 48 hour navy bag, which is a water resistant nylon, waterproof zipper and three inner pocket bag couldn’t be easier. 
Or the Herschel Supply Co Parker navy red backpack, which is a fully lined bag with pleated front and internal media pockets.

Perfect to hold a Barbour Dept B sports hat. The Dartmoor dark hat is a broad rimmed, with camouflage print, waxed outer, or one of the birch or bucket Norse Projects hats, which are the same styling, with reversible Oxford vintage print.

To once again contrast, a pair of Versace Tricolour beige and white or blue shoes, with lace up lightweight shoes, with branded buckle should be safely stowed.

Now to adapt any look a blazer always throws up a summer feel, be it from old school to boat club and the Gibson London pin stripe blazer cuts across both with two hand pockets, satin lining, single vent with delightful print lining, or the icon of Prisoner-esque navy blazer with three button front placket, beautiful white piping on front and pockets, with the Gabicci branded badge, polka dot lining and satin sleeve inner. 

I can just hear ‘Be seeing you’, as I look at the garment.

Of course a sweat shirt is de rigueur in a look of this type, so for crew neck shirts the Penfield Grad Appliqué in grey or yellow or the Norse Projects Ketel logo in dark grey/olive, grey/melangue or black, both sporting the brand name across the chest in classic sweat shirt fashion. 

For a hooded, plump for the Hugo Boss Black jacket hooded BM sweat. Two welt pockets, drawstring hood, zip through with Boss logo, all very Marciano, it also comes in navy.

Now for shorts, there is nothing wrong with the delicious contrast D1 check blue mix Docker shorts, keen length, check print with five pockets and zip fly. 

Or for a slightly calmer colour set go with the sharp stripe Fred Perry regal shorts, four pocket, striped pattern short in soft lightweight cotton and zip fly.

Keeping it casual once again with the Sebago Trenton penny loafer a fully suede upper, contrast stitching shoe with rubber sole. The Moccasin construction shoe comes in dark brown and rust colourings as well. Or the Lacoste Led Moorwelldark brown loafer with tassel upper, leather lining and upper, cushion insoles wonder.

Light coloured shades will work against the larger blue garments I am going for the Justin tortoise Wayfarer based sunglasses from Ray Ban in acetate frame, and brown lens. Nice.


These combinations are very much a tin of sweets, there are many to choose from that work together, it always pays to keep having a look and to mix things up.




Rain shouldn't stop summer play

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As John Lennon sang in The Beatles, psychedelic masterpiece I Am The Walrus‘Sitting in an English garden waiting for the sun. If the sun don't come. You get a tan from standing in the English rain.’

And so it is that our best time of the year for sunshine is almost always interrupted by some long periods of precipitation, so instead of running for cover, why not use it as another opportunity to show some style?

It really is the toss of a coin to decide which comes first though, the rain coat or the brolly?!?!?
Colour no longer being an issue with either, long gone are the days when black or blue were the only choices of umbrella colourings and rain coats are now a rainbow of choice.

So why not kick things off with aNorse Projects Elkaclassic which comes inyellow, greyorblack. The technology in this little wonder is aplenty, made in collaboration with Elka Regntoj, a Danish rainwear specialist.
Everything adjustable and sealed, with zip and button front  on theElkais guaranteed for battling the bad weather and has an amazing rubberised feel to the outer which allows for a flexible jacket that repels with assured ease.

A more standard style rain coast comes in the shape of thePatagonia Torrentshell, which in many ways says it all in the name. This is more of aPac-a-macstyle, which has all technical innovations than your average Caractacus Potts invention.

H2NO performance shell with waterproofing and breathability as standard the main functions here are comfort, warmth, and practicality, with hand warming pockets drawstring hem and ease of storage. It’s all very impressive and comes in some nice colours as well;Forge grey, navy rainandViking blue.

For colour, value and classic pac-a-mac/windcheater design you can always rely on theK-Way. Born in Paris in the 60s as an alternative to running away from the rain in soaked clothes, theK-Waywas invented. The jacket, that comes in all colours of the rainbow is a zip through, ventilated ‘unisex’ and is practical and stylish. 

Now naming something after then job it does always strikes me as good idea and so it is withRainsclothing's jackets, they do exactly what they say on the tin or label.

Similar in looks and style as the aforementionedNorse Projects, button through, drawstring hood, hand pockets and similar vibrant or muted colour ways; yellow and black for theJacket, with theBreakerwith zipped hand pockets coming black and blue and theLongjacket being, well the longer version, innavyorgreenand of course the incredibleCamo. Why complicate a good idea?!!

So you donned your jacket, hooded or not a brolly is still a good idea and especially if they look as good as the London Undercoverones. And just think if the sun does actually shine, you can use one as a parasoll.
Once again the colour choices are a plenty from this quality English handmade label.

The brands’ Lifesaverrange, which is inspired by the ‘colours of the British Life Boat Rescue. The City Gent which comes inolive, camouflage, navyordark greythis one really caught my eye and then grey. Beech wood shaft and Malacca handle and contrast button fastener, keeping dry has never looked so stylish.

TheWhangee Cane Crookbrolly, which is offered in range inorangeor navyordark greyand folds into a compact size with outer sleeve for convenience with a Whangee bamboo cane handle.
The black on blackHoundstoothandWatch Tartanumbrellas are made using recycled materials, with the iconic tartan and check featured on the inside of the brolly, withLondon Undercoverlogo etched on the handle.


You could get all Gene Kelly with anyone of this lot and start Singing in the Rain, and it doesn’t come down it is always better to be prepared.

Get Decked Out with Fred Perry

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FOR SOME reason using the term ‘Get decked out’ and linking it with Fred Perry always reminds me of the iconic Brighton Bank Holiday ruckuses down on the coast, where the MODs and the Rockers showed what can only be described as ‘bit of a dislike towards each other’.
Well the iconic laurel label has come out with a series of shirts and t-shirts this summer that stir up memories of that era and those scooter led seaside runs.

Coming over all Oasis and Ocean Colour Scene with its classic red, white and blue striped colouring the Tipped Seaside Fire polo is a collaboration with Southsea Deckchairs, utilising the iconic deckchair stripe synonymous with the British seaside and hazy summer days.

I love the nod to the iconic chair that has seated generations of holiday makers, by also using wooden buttons on the two button placket, (continued through the range) this shirt has a touch of the iconic boating blazer about it as well with variable band width stripes running through the garment.

TheKingsfisher version uses variants of navy and a light French blue in the same process and considering the two are so similar in design, they really are not when sat side by side.

The series is furthered with block stripe Holiday Royal shirt, using solid red and white stripes or blue and white, once again the wooden buttons are present, with a matching colour laurel on the chest pocket and button collar. 
Southsea Deckchairs is printed on the hem of the short sleeve shirt, but the most striking piece of this beautiful garment is the finish. 

The slightly distressed finish of all deck chairs in the weave is visible in the coloured stripe on the shirts. 
The fact that this is a lightweight shirt only adds to the effect, I find myself looking at the finish of the fabric constantly, it resonates with memories of holidays of yesteryear. 

You can almost smell the sea air when you look at it and I am not being over the top, at least I don’t think I am.
Finishing off the Southsea collaboration is the Beach Stripe long sleeve shirt, with muted blue crest on the chest pocket, uses a similar distressed desk chair finish to the fabric: chest pocket, wooden button down and front fasten, long sleeve shirt with a thinner stripe pattern and contrast stripe cuffs. 

The blue is classed as carbon blue, while the green shirt, which features the blue laurel on the chest pocket is known as Private, which I believe refers to the changing ‘cabanas’ that would have been used on beaches in years gone bye.

Although not part of the series, the Sharp carbon blue t-shirt has a thin hooped (striped) pattern in blue and white, with a nice deep blue crew neck and contrast maroon laurel on the chest in slim fit, is a nice addition to the seaside season.

Now get your skates on mate, or get your Vespa or Lambretta started, the seaside is calling.



Flower power is the summer choice

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FLORAL IS definitely the style for this summer, but obviously it is wise to avoid any double floral pitfalls, floral shorts and floral shirt are a definite no no, but it is easy to either draw down the brighter shirt with a dark short, or go completely out and drop in a pastel pink or light blue, enhancing the print further.

Anyway on to the shirts and there are plenty to choose between, which is a bonus and the quality of patterns on offer mean many of the shirts can be worn well into the evening and not come over all Tom Selleck, or as if you have filed to change after a day out at the beach.

Kicking off with a light pink or as its called mauve, Hawaiian Levi’s sta-prest short sleeve, which although palm print, not being typically floral, this twill constructed single chest pocket shirt is well worth a look, and of course it doesn’t wrinkle.
Farah offer a light and dark floral alternative with the less garish Gatsby cream short sleeve number, which forms part of their 1920 range. 

Wooden buttons and with one chest pocket, the shirt comes in navy, on which the print stands out with orange and pinks contrasting well against the navy on this more botanical print.

The Edwin Edward navy shirt is a lighter washed colour, with all over black print almost anatomical in its style. Short sleeved, this muted coloured shirt befits jeans rather than shorts in my opinion.
The Brooklyn We Go HardTulip blue shirt is a smaller all over print and boasts pointed collars, with a curved hem line and small hanger on the back.

The print design on the long sleeve Minimum Bob navy shirt is very similar, offering a kaleidoscope of colour in a tailored fit, with Chambray textile on the collar and cuffs, button down collars and three button fastening on the cuffs again with rear hanger.
A sparse floral print is featured on the Gunnerside midnight men’s shirt from Farah, with turned up short sleeves and contrast logo on the chest pocket and button down collar. 

Matinique’s Stator B Atlantic shirt, may have the longest name of any shirt ever made, but this button down long sleeve shirt features a more muted print, similar to BWGH, with branded buttons and adjustable cuffs I am liking this shirt dropped against a pair of jeans, whether light or dark denim.

Like with a dog at Christmas, floral prints are for life when it comes to the stunning Liberty of LondonDarcie and Owenshirts.
Tradition, supreme quality and a reserved pattern make these shirts unmissable, but more dress than casual in approach, shorts, unless well tailored, with these stunners would be a crime, but they are definitely ‘multi-seasonal’.
The Darcie is a subtle blue on deep green print, long sleeve button cuffs, pointed button-down collar, this shirt just smacks of tradition with Stuarts being the exclusive London retailer of it.

The Owen print is all Sixties psychedelic, hinting at Paisley, with its delightful circular floral print offering the same finishes as the Darcie and the same exclusivity at Stuarts.

Although not floral in body print, their style is continued in a nice twist with the Plain pink dress shirt by Liberty as it drops in a floral dash on the inside of the cuffs, leaving cuffs undone just offers a snippet of the print, but it’s subtly enough.

The shirt, which is not button down also comes in burgundy and navy and is a nice twist on the summer’s style, understated, but effective, with the inclusion being maintained around the inside of the collar.









It's all kicking off with Fred Perry

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THE SIMPLEST things are generally the best, the most iconic and the most memorable. With the world in them middle of its four yearly or quadrennial football frenzy, this time in what is perceived by many to be the spiritual home of the beautiful game, Brasil.

I realise I not telling anyone who does not live under a rock, anything that they do not already know as far as the World Cup is concerned, and as i type this many of you will be beginning to feel the buzz of PMT (Pre-Match Tension) as Woy’s Boys get ready for their fight for survival in the group stages.

So as the average crowd of sheep will be donning their shirts, in a  bid to stand out, and of course they will simply blend in, what better way to show a true understanding of the style of the beautiful game and also to be singularly stylish in a sea of similarity, than with one of the Fred PerryAuthentic’s ‘Country Collection’?!

The fact that the shirts’ starting point is as iconic as a 4-4-2, with the legendary two button, twin tipped collar polo, could not be any better. As I said simplicity. While the subtle use of laurel and country name, just tops this shirt off perfectly.

With the England shirt for example, the body is a crisp white, red twin tipped collars, double button placket, of which the branded buttons are framed in red and fronted in white, with contrast red cuffs, red laurel and England embroidered underneath. It is simple, effective and like Geoff Hurst in front of goal in a World Cup final, it works, perfectly.

National colours abound with the French coming in a fabulous blue, white tips and laurel, red cuffs and name on chest.
The Italian shirt comes with green twins, white laurel and name with red cuffs. 

The Japanese shirt is a mixed blue and white, while Portugalhas green tips, cuffs and yellow laurel and name, maroon body. 
The German shirt, or Deutschland, has red cuffs, yellow laurel and name and black twin tips.

The first shirt to already be out of the tournament, Spain, is a red and yellow combination, while the hosts’ shirt is the iconic yellow and blue, with name in blue and laurel green and for Holland or Nederland, the iconic orange has contrast blue cuffs with red twin tips and white laurel and name.

The best thing about the shirts are that they will obviously still remain stylish, long after the final whistle of this summer’s biggest sporting event has been blow, so you can always wear your colours with pride, no matter how badly your country does in the sweltering Rio heat. And what better way to don the shirt and show your skills, than by kicking around a replica of the Slazenger ball used in the 1966 4-2 triumph?!!! The ball is a printed with match and final score and is a limited edition.





Style fit for a President: JFK

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THERE ARE iconic looks that remain timeless, classic and simply natural, whatever era and they are perfect for summer, thank fully as it is now.

Keeping just the right side the prep style a man who is widely regarded as the most popular American President John F. Kennedy showed his cool style while onboard his favourite yacht Honey Fitz alongside the glitterati of power and politics during that golden era, with wife Jackie, the rest of the Kennedy clan and on the odd occasion Marylin Monroe.

When on Presidential duties JFK would always be smartly dressed, suits to die for, but while aboard his yacht, he would mix up a relaxed style of light trousers, pastel coloured shirt, with pen collars of course, and of course Wayfarersand a relaxed pair of tennies or pumps.


The look is switchable, which gives it it’s longevity, as not all of us can look as cool as JFK, but we can but try.
The Mikkel Rude sta-prest white trousers are a great starting point. 

Relaxed yet superbly cut, sitting below on the waist. This straight leg trouser has two side pockets, zip fly, two rear pockets and comes in a slim fit.

The next nearest lighter trousers are the Dockers chinos in either the Alpha khaki slim or the DO extra slim, these four pocket trouser, with lined waist band are perfect.

Ping in an Anderson’s belt either the brown braided leather or mustard, with the exquisite hand finished quality smacks of everything Sixties style and slips in perfectly with this light breezy look.

Now choosing the right polo shirt is thank fully not as tricky as it may have been a while back, with many labels honing that stunning Sixties cut and collar finish. 

First out the traps I am picking the Sunspel blue jersey, which comes in a a delightful French blue two button placket, in neat finish, all in succulent Egyptian cotton.
Next up must be the Orlebar Brown Terry Toweling sky polo. It is the perfect colourway with chest pocket and curved front and back hem. 
This shirt is almost too cool for school.

The Paul Smith Zebra blue also fits in nicely, with two button placket, Mother of pearl buttons Zebra logo embroidered on the chest, the shirt is a perfect soft cotton number, you could also drop in the Organic purple shirt as well, if you wanted to stand out a bit more.

Now stepping away, no pun intended, from the norm I would plump for the Armani jeans blue shoe with canvas and leather upper: rubber sole, metal eyelets, laced up this trainer/shoe is a modern twist on this timeless look, but if you are a stickler for as near as possible, then Shoes Like Pottery canvas trainer in indigo is a hark back to times gone by with vulcanised sole and canvas top. You could also rock the black shoe as well.

When topping off this look you could try to vary, but there really is only one glass for this and it is the Wayfarer or New Wayfarer Ray Ban have created.

Stunning with a delicious blue and brown frame, gradient brown lenses and total UV protection, what else would the President wear??!!!





Throw in the towel and make short work of summer

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NOW I am not expecting anyone to start up some sort of poolside war, leaving beach towels on sun loungers in the early hours etc, a holiday should be a time to relax, but there is always a need to look good and thus feel good.
Whether you are a beachside sun king, or an out and about trekker or a bar fly, there is no reason not to do it with style.

First place to start is with an item that in some parts is overlooked: The beach towel.

SWIMS wade in brilliantly with its offering which comes in stand out orange or pastel blue, the soft cotton towel, which is quick drying, comes with a handy rubber hook in one corner to allow for quick drying. 

The simply one colour towel is contrast to the Paul Smith Swim towel, that takes the famous striped pattern seen on the brand’s bag linings and scarves and once again comes in soft cotton.

Making a perfect combo is the Hugo Boss Black beach set which brings a French blue towel, swim short and drawstring carry bag.
The towel, which is soft to touch, comes with a metal logo on one side and embossed, oversized logo on the other, while the shorts are mesh-lined, with side pockets and back pocket, Velcro-fastened©, with elasticated draw string with Boss logo on left leg. The bag of course is a nice touch, and invaluable when heading home from the pool, beach etc.

To contrast of the plain colours of the towels, PS one aside, why not throw in some patterns on your shorts and what better way to start than with the Paul Smith printed classic short. Two pockets, net-lined, short leg style with a zip fastened back pocket an branded tab. The shanty town print works well and provides colour inane interesting way.

The Signature Stripe shorts, which would make you almost invisible when worn with the matching towel, are a classic for short, with black draw string waist and elasticated waist band and offers the same points as the aforementioned shorts.

In its Dunkers range Penguin goes straight for the jugular when it comes to offering prints. The True black shorts are Velco-fly©, four pocket (two side, two rear) and have a tropic print with light blue piping against the black garment. And is easy dry.
The iconic Munsingwear Penguin logo is the main stay of the Dunkers All Overshort, which comes in blue, with white draw-string fasten, four pockets and are easily wearable anywhere, not just by the pool or beach.

The Minimum DK range offer some of the most outlandish prints around with the Patriot short, which is mesh-lined, short leg, with two hand pockets has an Eighties style fluorescent print, and comes with a drawstring bag, with brand logo on the outside.

The Flash green short features the same styling, with white drawstring and a bright green tropical print on black background. 

Offering a reversed print either black on green or vice versa, the Tony Amazon short offers the same stylings. Using the same print to great effect Hugo Boss Piranha short features over fish detail print, on a blue or orange back. Slightly wider in fitting, this short has two side pockets and has a rubberised logo on the front left leg. Once again the short is quick drying.

The Orlebar Brown spiral short is a nice addition as well and sports a more muted print, like the HB ones.

Two side pockets, metal popper closure, zip fly and zip fasten back pocket, with buckle waist fastening. The shorts are tested against chlorine and salt and have two side pockets and that distinguishable OB cut. Mesh-lined and coming with a waterproof branded draw string bag these are a nice short and the only print shorts in the range.

Now if you are looking for plain shorts, well that’s a different matter.



Make light work of weekends away

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PACKING LIGHT is something that, traditionally, is not understood by many, especially the fairer sex when packing for a holiday, but, in many ways it is a definer of style, less is more and all that.
So preparing for a weekend away is the perfect starting point or proof that you know what you are doing, are about and aiming to achieve.

So pick a city, any city, well one with a bit of class, say Barcelona and before heading to the airport get packing, but let’s be honest it should be a pleasurable thing and not take all day. No sitting on suitcases, the whole thing should completed in a quick fire 10 minutes maximum, from the start of opening your trusted Cognac Hartsfield Weekender Tote to get things rolling. 

I love the Want Les Essentials De La Vie range and this shoulder strap bag, combining leather handles, base and interior against a lovely grey check outer is another reason why. It also comes in black.

Of course any trip is not just about your outer wear, grooming and carrying grooming products is key, so why not ping in a Filson travel kit in navy, the water repellent carrier combines two interior and two exterior pockets, with leather zipper pull and trim.

Any tech going with you is not the same without being carried properly, so slip your iPad into the Herschel Supply Cypress iPad sleeve, with fleece interior all in a slim container and everything will be sorted. 

While any bank and business cards and of course money, should be safely stowed in the WantKennedy Cognac money clip wallet. A beautiful calf leather wallet with three front and back pockets, detachable money clip and button snap fastener. It also comes in black.

Coming in a range of colours, I have plumped for the Sebago trenton penny loafer, minus socks of course. The moccasin style shoe is a suede upper, leather lined with cushioned sole and contrast stitching. The blue stands nice against the khaki Dockers Alpha tan trousers. Five pockets, lightweight cotton zip fly these are the perfect choice and of course, easy to pack.

To counter any reduced temperatures in the evening the Hardy Amies knitted navy polo is ideal. The textured knit, slim fit shirt with three button placket is a slim fit winner. 

Holding your trousers up the Anderson’s braided mustard leather, brass buckle belt works perfectly and of course, is lightweight.

The Chris Grey Ray-Ban sunglasses, with G-15 lenses utilise vintage styling with modern finish will top things off nicely.

Oh, and of course, Barcelona has its own beach, you’d be stupid not to take advantage, so the Printed classic swim shorts from Paul Smith, zip fastened back and two side pockets with draw strong waistband should seal it, plus the swim bag to store them in makes it a tip top choice.





The Trickers is getting it together

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THE THEME songs to the anarchic 1970s cop classic Freebie and the Bean talks about things that go together like, ‘Peaches and Cream’ etc and I think that the Trickers x Stuarts London collaboration shoes work supremely, with a good quality dark denim jean and a few other bits to make a perfect late summer look.

The brown or black toe cap semi-brogue shoe has enough subtle variations to merit purchasing both, with the lighter Dainite sole, triple and matching leather lining working wonders when it comes to wearing the shoe with various looks.

Stood alongside a pair of dark jeans such as Tellason Gustave slim tapered dark wash Selvedge. Drop in a turn up on these San Franscisco made jeans and you are set fair.

Or why not try the Grim Tim Nudie Jeans, which come in a slim fit and provide more colour than the Tellason due to the stitching or rock the button fly Edwin ED-55 regular fit for that wider feel.


To touch on that Brando-esque feel, a grey crew neck t-shirt is needed. You could rock a navy blue, or white, but today I fancy grey.

For an ironic look try the Iceberg Clothing Charlie Brown, with marled print pattern in slim fit, or the silhouette grey, with orange print, that comes in a darker colouring.

The Sunspel Henley grey t-shirt is perfect with single chest pocket is bang on as well, or the lighter grey, with contrast stitching Tomte Hugo Boss shirt.

You really need a long coat for this look, a Crombie rainmac or Baracuta Trench coat is ideal.

The petrol blue trench from Baracuta works well against the grey and the tan also sits nicely, for a darker feel the Minimum sky trenchwith multi-button front fastening is ideal.

Round the whole thing off with a Want Les Essentials De La VieOhare black shopper tote bag. This little gem has a deep interior and pull-out pockets, along with detachable shoulder strap.








Slide a copy of the latest edition of SLM under your arm and you are away.

Style fit for: McQueen 'King of Cool'

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"I scrounged around for the next couple of years, trying to get the scam on the human race and just where the hell I fitted in - I discovered there were no openings." Steve McQueen, actor and King of Cool.

Whether he honestly thought he fitted into the status quo or not, McQueen blazed a trail of his own and not just with the ladies, on the silver screen or on the race tracks of the world. He set the tone in the world of fashion. 

A nonchalant style which can only be described as ubér cool.
But what was his best look? Well for it’s simple as it’s also one of his easiest approachable the laid back, simple colour sets style in the 1968 cult cop classic Bullitt, Mustang fastback and all.
In other words avoiding the leather chaps of the Magnificent Seven and the stark pyjamas of Papillon.
The look is timeless and easily flexible, combining navy blue, with a contrast beige from the rain and of course those long, now arrived desert boots. The only thing you may struggle with is the gun and holster.
Now of course the man himself sported a roll neck, but as it’s summer a crew neck jumper or V-neck with polo will also work perfectly. The John Smedley Belvoir indigo roll neck is the one of choice though for this look.
Combining the right look in tight fit, without carrying patterns such as cable knit, the Woolrich Mill navy jumper or the Melange v-neck work well the simple clean lines in 100 per cent wool, while the Melange has a shallow enough neck to still hold the look.
Clean lines are all with this style, clean and relaxed with just the right mouth of formal, so the Levi’s 511 Bedford blue pants, slim fit tapered leg ideal.
Altering the look slightly the Farah Duke Hopsack trousers are a nice twist, zip fly, slim fit in delicious Hopsack fabric.
The boots are Sanders Snuff Chukka boot that complete this look, lace up, leather lined, crepe sole in brown and of course beautiful. They also come in Dirty buck (Tan) green or navy.


Now the man himself also dropped in a brown sports jacket and in occasional scenes in the film a tan ran mac. 
The Gibson Marl brown wool blazer has a similar feel, and contrasts nicely with the Chukka boots. Two button single breasted, single vent two hand pockets make it. 
Then of course the Baracuta Trench works this look well and either of the two side pockets are the perfect place to hold your Persol square tortoise sunglasses.

Now where is that Mustang and of course Ally McGraw? 

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